Nomination Whist: The Trick-Taking Game Where Every Bid Counts

Quick Info

Players
3–7
Deck
Standard 52-card deck
Difficulty
Easy–Medium
Game Length
30–45 minutes
Type
Trick-taking with bidding

Introduction

Nomination Whist — known affectionately as Nom, and also called Oh Hell, Blob, Elevator, or a dozen other names depending on where you are — is one of the most satisfying trick-taking card games ever devised. Its premise is deceptively simple: before each round, you predict exactly how many tricks you will win. Get it right, and you score handsomely. Get it wrong by even one trick, and you score nothing. That binary outcome, repeated across a series of rounds with changing hand sizes, creates a game of extraordinary tension and strategic depth.

What makes Nomination Whist so compelling is that it rewards accuracy over ambition. Unlike many trick-taking games where the goal is simply to win as many tricks as possible, Nom demands precision. Winning six tricks when you bid five is just as catastrophic as winning four. This inversion of the usual trick-taking logic forces players to think differently — sometimes you must deliberately lose tricks to hit your bid, which is a skill entirely absent from games like Bridge or Hearts.

Nomination Whist has been played in British pubs, Commonwealth card clubs, and family living rooms for well over a century. Its rules are simple enough to teach in five minutes, yet the game generates moments of genuine drama — particularly in the single-card round, where your entire fortune rests on one card and one bid, and the final rounds where scores are tight and every trick matters.

The Deck & Players

Nomination Whist uses a single standard 52-card deck. Cards rank in the standard order: Ace (high), King, Queen, Jack, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 (low). There are no jokers and no special cards.

The game accommodates 3 to 7 players, with 4 or 5 players generally considered the sweet spot. The number of players determines the maximum number of cards that can be dealt per round:

Players Maximum Cards per Deal Typical Deal Structure
3 17 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7
4 13 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7
5 10 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7
6 8 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7
7 7 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7

The 7-down-to-1-and-back-up-to-7 structure is the most widely played format, producing 13 rounds per game. Some groups play only the descending half (7 down to 1, for 7 rounds), while others extend the range depending on player count. With 3 or 4 players, some groups deal up to 10 or even 13 cards in the opening round.

You also need a scorepad and pen to track bids and scores across rounds. A simple grid with player names across the top and round numbers down the side works perfectly.

Object of the Game

The objective of Nomination Whist is to accumulate the highest total score across all rounds. You score points in a round only if you win the exact number of tricks you bid. If you bid 3 and win 3, you score. If you bid 3 and win 2 or 4, you score nothing. The player with the most points after all rounds have been played wins the game.

This all-or-nothing scoring system is the heart of Nom. It means a player who consistently bids accurately — even making modest bids of 1 or 2 — will usually beat a player who bids aggressively but misses frequently. Consistency is king.

Setup & Deal

Setting up a game of Nomination Whist takes only a moment:

  1. Choose the first dealer by any agreed method (drawing cards, cutting the deck, or simply volunteering). The deal rotates clockwise after each round.
  2. Agree on the deal structure. The standard format is 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7, but confirm this before starting. Also agree on whether the dealer’s bid will be restricted (see Bidding below).
  3. Prepare the scorepad. Write each player’s name across the top of a grid, with numbered rows for each round.
  4. Shuffle and deal. For the first round (typically 7 cards), the dealer shuffles the deck and deals the appropriate number of cards to each player, one at a time, clockwise.
  5. Turn up the trump card. After dealing, the dealer turns the next card from the deck face up and places it on the table. The suit of this card is the trump suit for the round. The turned-up card is not used in play — it merely establishes trumps.

If the deal structure includes a no-trump round (often the 1-card round, or a designated round), no trump card is turned up and the round is played without a trump suit. Some groups allow the dealer to choose the trump suit on specific rounds, while others always turn a card.

Bidding (Nomination)

After the cards are dealt and the trump suit established, the bidding phase begins. This is the phase that gives the game its name — each player nominates (bids) how many tricks they expect to win.

  1. Bidding starts to the dealer’s left The player to the dealer’s left bids first, announcing a number from 0 up to the number of cards dealt for that round. A bid of 0 (sometimes called “nil” or “nothing”) means the player intends to win no tricks at all.
  2. Bidding proceeds clockwise Each subsequent player states their bid. There is no obligation to bid higher or lower than previous bids. You simply declare how many tricks you believe you can win based on your hand and the trump suit.
  3. The dealer bids last The dealer has the advantage of hearing everyone else’s bid before making their own. However, in the most common version of the rules, the dealer faces a crucial restriction: the dealer cannot bid a number that would make the total bids equal the number of tricks available. For example, in a 7-card round where the first three players have bid 2, 1, and 3 (totalling 6), the dealer cannot bid 1. This “bust” rule ensures that at least one player must fail every round, preventing the possibility of everyone making their bid.
  4. Record all bids on the scorepad Write down each player’s bid for the round. Many scorekeepers also note the total bids and how far over or under they are from the number of tricks available, as this indicates how competitive the round will be.
The Dealer’s Dilemma The “bust” rule (also called the “dealer’s restriction”) is what transforms Nomination Whist from a pleasant pastime into a genuinely tense game. The dealer is sometimes forced into a bid they know is nearly impossible to make. If your hand clearly contains exactly 2 winning tricks but bidding 2 would make the totals balance, you must bid 1 or 3 instead — and either way, you face a tough round. Experienced players factor this into their strategy, sometimes bidding strategically when they are not the dealer to put the dealer into a worse position.

How to Play

After bidding, the trick-taking phase begins. Play follows standard Whist family rules, which will be familiar to anyone who has played Bridge, Spades, or Hearts.

  1. The player to the dealer’s left leads the first trick This player places any card from their hand face up on the table. The suit of this card is the led suit for the trick.
  2. Each player must follow suit if possible Proceeding clockwise, each player must play a card of the led suit if they hold one. This is mandatory — you may not play a different suit if you can follow. If you cannot follow suit (you have no cards of the led suit), you may play any card from your hand, including a trump.
  3. Determine the trick winner The trick is won by:
    • The highest trump card played, if any trump was played.
    • The highest card of the led suit, if no trump was played.
    A card from a suit that is neither the led suit nor trumps cannot win a trick, regardless of its rank.
  4. The trick winner leads the next trick The player who won the trick gathers the cards and places them face down, then leads any card to start the next trick.
  5. Continue until all cards are played Play continues until every player has played all their cards. Each player then counts the tricks they won.

Scoring

Scoring in Nomination Whist is clean and decisive:

Bid Tricks Won Score
0 0 10
1 1 11
2 2 12
3 3 13
4 4 14
5 5 15
3 2 or 4 0

Notice that bidding zero and succeeding is worth 10 points — the same as bidding 1 and winning one trick (11 points) minus only one point. This makes zero-bids highly efficient when your hand is weak. The risk-reward ratio improves as you bid higher: successfully bidding 5 earns 15 points, but the difficulty of winning exactly 5 tricks makes it a much riskier proposition.

After scoring each round, add the points to each player’s running total. The player with the highest cumulative score after all 13 rounds (in the standard format) wins the game.

The Single-Card Round

The 1-card round is the most famous and dramatic moment in any game of Nomination Whist. Each player receives a single card, looks at it, and must decide whether to bid 0 or 1. There is no room for nuance — you will either win the trick or you will not.

In the standard version, players hold their single card so only they can see it. A trump card is turned up. Each player bids 0 or 1. Then the player to the dealer’s left leads their card, and the trick plays out normally. The highest trump wins; if no trump is played, the highest card of the led suit wins.

The 1-card round is almost entirely luck, but it generates disproportionate excitement. Players agonise over whether their Queen of Hearts is strong enough to bid 1 when the trump suit is Spades. They curse when their Ace of trumps is led into and beaten by nothing because they were the only player with that suit. The round takes 30 seconds to play but produces stories that last all evening.

No-Trump Rounds

Many groups incorporate no-trump rounds into Nomination Whist, where no trump card is turned up and the round is played without a trump suit. Common approaches include:

No-trump rounds fundamentally change the dynamic of play. Without the ability to ruff (play a trump when void in the led suit), high cards in side suits become more valuable and players cannot escape losing tricks in suits where they hold high cards. Aces become near-guaranteed trick winners, and long suits become more dangerous. Bidding accuracy requires a different kind of hand evaluation in no-trump rounds.

Strategy Tips

Strategy Tips for Winning at Nomination Whist
  • Bid conservatively. The single most important lesson in Nomination Whist is that making your bid is everything. A player who bids 1 and makes it (11 points) is in a far better position than a player who bids 4 and misses (0 points). When in doubt, bid one fewer than you think you can win. Ten points for a zero bid is reliable income that adds up over 13 rounds.
  • Count your sure tricks. Before bidding, count the tricks you are virtually certain to win. An Ace of trumps is almost always a sure trick. A King of trumps is likely. A side-suit Ace is probable but not guaranteed (it could be trumped). Bid based on near-certainties, not on hopes.
  • Manage your hand to hit your bid. If you bid 2 in a 7-card round, you need to win exactly 2 and lose exactly 5. Actively work on both sides: win the tricks you need, and deliberately lose the rest. This means ducking with low cards, refusing to trump when you can, and letting opponents win tricks when your bid is already met.
  • Watch the bid totals. If the total bids for a round exceed the number of tricks, some players must fail. If the totals are under, there are “extra” tricks that nobody wants. Knowing whether the round is overbid or underbid helps you assess how aggressively you need to play.
  • Void suits early. In higher-card rounds, getting rid of all cards in one suit gives you the ability to trump that suit later. This is crucial when you need one specific trick: void yourself in a side suit, wait for that suit to be led, and trump it for your needed trick.
  • Lead strategically when you’ve made your bid. Once you have won the exact number of tricks you need, your goal shifts to not winning any more. Lead low cards in suits where you are void in high cards. Let other players fight over the remaining tricks while you coast to your score.
  • Pay attention to the dealer restriction. If you are sitting just before the dealer and your bid would leave the dealer in an impossible position, consider whether that helps you. Experienced players sometimes adjust their bids to force the dealer into a bad spot — a subtle but powerful tactic.
  • Respect the zero bid in small rounds. In rounds of 1, 2, or 3 cards, bidding zero is often the smartest play unless your hand is exceptionally strong. With fewer cards, there is less room to manoeuvre, and a single unexpected trick can ruin a positive bid. The guaranteed 10 points from a successful zero bid is valuable.

Common Variations

Nomination Whist is one of those games where every group has its own “house rules.” Here are the most common variations:

Scoring Variations

Deal Structure Variations

Bidding Variations

Trump Variations

Nomination Whist Across Cultures

Nomination Whist goes by an extraordinary number of names worldwide, a testament to its broad appeal. In the United States, it is commonly called Oh Hell (or the more polite “Oh Pshaw” and “Oh Well”). In Australia, it is often known as Contract Whist. In Britain, Nom is the casual shorthand. The game is also known as Blob (because you draw a blob next to your name when you miss your bid), Elevator (because the hand sizes go up and down), Blackout, Bust, and Boerenbridge in the Netherlands.

Despite the many names, the core game is remarkably consistent across cultures. The deal structure, bidding mechanic, and scoring system may vary slightly, but the fundamental concept — bid exactly, score exactly — remains universal. This simplicity and universality explain why Nomination Whist has thrived for over a century without any single publisher, organisation, or tournament circuit promoting it. It spreads the old-fashioned way: from player to player, from family to family, from pub to pub.

The game’s closest relative in the broader card game world is Romanian Whist, which shares the exact-bidding mechanic and the descending-ascending deal structure but has developed its own distinctive conventions and scoring in Romanian card-playing culture.


Frequently Asked Questions

Nomination Whist works best with 3 to 7 players. Four or five players is generally considered the ideal number, providing the best balance of strategic bidding and competitive play. With more than 7 players, the maximum deal size must be reduced because there are not enough cards in a standard 52-card deck.

The most common deal structure is a descending-ascending pattern: 7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7, giving 13 rounds total. Some groups play 7 down to 1 only (7 rounds), or extend the range with more cards per player if fewer people are playing. The 1-card round is the most unpredictable, while the 7-card rounds require the most strategic bidding.

Starting with the player to the dealer’s left, each player announces how many tricks they expect to win (from zero up to the total number of cards dealt). The dealer bids last. In the most common rule, the dealer’s bid is restricted so that the total of all bids cannot equal the number of tricks available. This ensures that at least one player must fail to make their bid in every round.

If you win exactly the number of tricks you bid, you score 10 points plus the number of tricks bid. For example, bidding 3 and winning exactly 3 tricks scores 13 points (10 + 3). Bidding 0 and winning no tricks scores 10 points. If you win more or fewer tricks than your bid, you score 0 points for that round. Some variants award 1 point per trick won regardless of the bid, but the standard version awards nothing for a missed bid.

In no-trump rounds, only the suit that is led matters, and the highest card of the led suit wins each trick. No-trump rounds change the strategy significantly because players cannot ruff (trump) when void in the led suit. Aces become near-guaranteed trick winners. No-trump rounds typically occur on the 1-card round or on a designated round agreed upon before the game starts.

Yes, you must follow the suit of the card that was led if you hold any cards of that suit. If you cannot follow suit because you have no cards of that suit, you may play any card from your hand, including a trump. Failing to follow suit when able (called a revoke) is a serious error that typically results in a penalty or a re-dealt round.

Yes, bidding zero is a valid and strategically important bid. If you successfully win zero tricks, you score 10 points (10 + 0). Bidding zero is common in rounds with few cards dealt, where your hand may contain only low cards. The challenge is that opponents may deliberately lead suits where you hold high cards, forcing you to win tricks you do not want.

Nomination Whist and Oh Hell are essentially the same game with regional naming differences. The core mechanic is identical: players bid the exact number of tricks they will win, and score only if they hit their bid exactly. Minor rule variations exist between different groups, such as the deal structure, whether the dealer’s bid is restricted, and the scoring system, but the fundamental game is the same. Other names include Blob, Elevator, Blackout, and Boerenbridge.

The dealer bids last, which gives them full information about what everyone else has bid. However, the common rule that the dealer cannot make the total bids equal the number of tricks means the dealer is sometimes forced into a difficult bid. This creates a fascinating tension: having more information but less freedom. The dealer position rotates each round, ensuring fairness across the game.